25-01-2009, 00:35
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Forum junkie
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,901
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hmmmzz, had de carb erafgehaald om hem op te schonen, vacuum slangetjes die slijtage vertoonden vervangen. alles terug netjes aangesloten, moter gestart en liep nu perfect als de moter koud had. Maar na 2 min begon hij terug te stijgen in toerental, probleem was nu zelfs dat hij na 20min rijden nog steeds hoog in toerental ging neutraal... kom er echt gek van.
Dat hij valse lucht zou trekken langs de pakking is uitgesloten.
kheb al veel zitten rondzoeken, maar deze beschrijving is exact wat ik heb.
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Just wanted to thank you guys for giving me the pointers to solve my problem. The Pierburg 2E2 really is a complicated beasty, but thanks to you guys Ive solved my problem of high idle speed and overrun. My wifes Golf 1.8 Auto with a 2E2 (60K miles)idled at 2200 rpm or more (hot or cold) and overrun all the time (once timed out of curiosity at over 3 minutes!), and came with an embarrassing range of wheezes, pops and bangs when finally stopped. After pointlessly replacing the Auto choke (£50-00) (its your choke sticking on mate...!) I got down to some serious study and narrowed the problem down to the 3-4 point unit or the Waxstat (a popular choice), both of which can affect the hot engine idle speed if not working correctly. The Waxstat can be tested by placing in a cup of very hot water to see if the pin extends or by removing the unit from a hot running engine. If its working ok the idle speed will increase further as its is removed (when hot it closes the throttle choke position via a sliding rod in the carb. Manually depressing the sliding rod with a small screw driver will show if the waxstat pin is extending sufficiently. The waxstat pin needs to be able to push the rod about 5mm into the carb body. Saved £25 quid (German & Swedish) so far. Next the 3-4 point unit looked suspect as the diaphragm rod (which actuates the throttle arm) did not change position (ie retract) when the engine was turned on. However when coaxed (with the same screwdrive) it would withdraw and hey presto the idle speed was spot on. Tried some WD40 on the shaft but no joy. Sensing a big bill (G & S don't do this item) I used a reversible pool pump to apply a vacuum to the lower of the three connections on the unit and it worked fine. You can suck but its not easy to maintain the vacuum. This indicated a leaking vacuum source or no vacuum, and the problem was eventually traced to the brass port on the rear of the carb. This has a tiny hole (0.5 mm ) which becomes easily blocked. Removed the carb (easy enough job) and carefully drilled out the port with 0.5 drill. Car is now running perfectly and the wife has stopped moaning, for now. Thanks again.
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nieuwe/bijkomende info is altijd welkom! Thx |